Day before yesterday, we set out for an overnight trip to a relatively local ski-in hot springs. "We" refers to a group of assorted random folks: me, Doug, my good friend M, M's new girlfriend, N, from down south, and one of M's local friends, Y. It was spring break and the only free time I have in a busy school year, and of course M would want to show off the Real North to her lovely lady.
The trouble with planning these camping trips in advance is that they really should be weather-dependent, but we didn't think about that. We only though about the fact the weekend weather report said it was going to warm up, although the bitter chill in the air Tuesday morning should have made us question that knowledge.
So the five of us set out early in the morning with one skidoo, four pairs of skis, four dogs and a toboggan sled piled into two vehicles. Having fortified ourselves with a hearty berakfast, we drove the three hours up a highway the begins out paved and nearly ice-free, but soon descends into ice-covered gravel. The wind was whipping up little drifts of snow near the summit even as the snowplow passed, and patches of aufeis on the road provided an occasional slippery surprise. Needless to say, I love this highway and this drive.
At the trailhead, we tumbled out in an excited mass of wagging tails and camping gear, and immediately proceeded to finish packing, throw our gear in the sled, rethink it and take out another shirt to put on, throw our gear in the sled again, realize the sled would need to make two trips, and finally send Doug off on the skidoo with a first load of gear. Naturally, he would be much faster than the rest of us, who were skiing.
The ski was about 4 hours, assuming M's pace from the last time we did the trip, but fluffy granular snow made the going slow. I broke trail, having somehow wound up as the fastest skier in the group -- thanks, I am certain, to my shiny new skis that had been just broken in the day before. Ah, the day before -- the day N out on a pair of skis for the first time and did an excellent job of staying upright. Which brings us to the secret plan underlying the first plan: that N would go as far along the 12-km trail as she could, then catch a ride with Doug.
We descended to the river, which was frozen solid with two feet of snow overlying the ice, and crossed into a sunny field dotted with black spruce. I took a breather and waited for the rest to ctach up. After establishing that the plan would go like this -- we'd each go at our own pace and meet up occasionally -- I headed out to look for a second sunny spot in which to take a break. After about an hour, a straight stretch of trail let the sun show in the crevice between the trees, and I laid down a few spruce boughs to rest on. About fifteen minutes later, Y came along. I asked her how the other two were doing and she said she had no idea. So we headed down the trail again, planning to find a sunny spot in which to make a fire and wait.
It may have been another half hour when I saw the sled at the top of a long hill, with Doug's helmet atop it but no one in sight. Cresting the hill, I looked down. Almost straight down. The trail faded to nothing as it disappeared between thick spruce forest and a glacier-sized patch of slippery overflow ice. Floundering in the fluff of snow was Doug and his skidoo.
So we pulled. We pushed. We prodded. There was a ledge of ice to go over before getting onto the trail, on a steep uphill in snow the texture of quicksand. We turned the machine around, tried to go over the uphill side of the ice. One ski slid off the mound, and Doug tried to wrestle it out, stepping knee-deep into the freezing pool hiding on the uphill side of the overflow. We went back the first way. Doug gunned the machine, got one ski up onto the ledge, got another ski -- no, it slid down and smashed into a tree.
We decided it was time to wait. With a few more people, we could pull the machine up over the ledge, but it would take some weight, especially with the slippery footing.
I gathered birchbark and dry spruce boughs covered in spanish moss, all brittle in the winter air. Clearing out a spot beside the trail, I laid my pile of kindling to one side, chose a few curls of bark and tiny branches, and clicked the lighter. Nothing. It was that cold. I held the lighter in my bare hands, beather on the side of it. Clicked it again. A spark this time. My hands were getting cold. In fact, the rest of me was getting cold, with the sun behind the trees now and a breeze picking up. I clicked the lighter again, and got a flame.
The fire caught instantly, and I started to feed it with larger branches. If you're going to get stuck, you might as well get stuck in a black spruce forest, surrounded by half-rotten sticks of birch, the dry boughs on the underside of the spruce trees, and dead sticks of alder. The hip-deep snow and steeps slopes made going hard, but I could feed the fire all night and day if I had to. And gathering wood kept me warm.
Y came skiing up just after I got the fire started, but we knew we had to wait for the rest of the party to get the skidoo unstuck. We gathered wood and fed the fire, put a cup of hot water on -- the cocoa powder was in the second load -- and waited. Soon, M and N came slogging up the steep hill, looking exhausted. I wasn't sure how far along we were -- over halfway, definitely -- but later estimated that they had made it eight kilometers. Eight! N's first time on skis! No wonder she looked so exhausted as she crested the hill, not to mention chilled to the bone. The temperature, which has been below freezing in full sunshine in the heat of afternoon, had dropped to around -15 C by this time.
We sat N down by the fire, shared the cup of hot water, and made a plan. It would get dark soon, and M and Y needed to get moving. Doug was headed back to the truck to pick up the second load of gear, and would pick up N here on his way back. She had reached the phase of exhaustion at which, when you fall, you can't think of a way or a reason to get up. You just lie there, wondering why someone can't save you.
I suppose if we were smart, we would have simply turned around. But it never even crossed my mind to give up the hot springs, to curtail our trip in any way. We had already each figured the second night of camping was a bust, but no one thought to give up this one night. If anyone did, they didn't voice the idea.
So M and Y set off down the trail toward the hot springs, Doug set off on his way back to truck (having used the full weight of four of us to pull the skidoo over the ledge), and N and I sat down to wait. I forced an energy bar down her throat -- breakfast, plentiful as it was, had worn off long before and there was no way she could keep warm without food. I gathered some more firewood, enough to last at least until Doug got back. I knocked down two dead trees twice as tall as myself, hanging on the trunks with all my weight to make them fall, and piled snow up on the windward side of the fire. The wind was steady now and cold. I used long fresh spruce boughs to build a windbreak, and finally, somewhat tired but thankfully not yet chilled, sat down with N to wait for Doug's return.